Thursday 11 December 2008, Killarney - Glin, Ireland
Today was more about sightseeing than stopping, kissing stones or seeing castles. We headed north to Tralee and then decided to drive through the Dingle Peninsula, a very good decision. The scenery is fantastic and the Connor Pass is so narrow that trucks and buses aren't allowed on the road. It certainly felt like Gollum was about to come from behind a rock and start on about his 'precious'. Dingle is a quaint little town and the locals have a hero called the Dingle Dolphin. He's been loitering around in the bay for 20 odd years, and now regular tour boats go out to see him, and if you don't see him, then you get a refund. We then went on further to do the Shea Head Drive which goes all around the headland. It is just beautiful. It was a cold drizzly day, but still way better than Cairo dust and smoke. We stopped for lunch at a pottery place, and it turns out that they are world famous. The shop is filled with pottery which would look spectacular in any home. Their website is www.louismulcahy.com. We were then going to drive onto Limerick, but found it difficult to find a hostel that might be available so we thought we would head to Tarbert, stay there and get the ferry in the morning. The went to the hostel 'The Ferry House' and it was closed. Then rang them from a payphone and they said they would be there at 5. So we waited around, got some Chinese takeaway, waited some more until 6. As I said it was a cold and drizzly day and now it was dark. Had enough of waiting and thought we would move on and see what we could find. 5 minutes down the road we found a B&B in Glin. It was great. Warm room, pub next door, santie ringing his bell going down the street, how showers, full and hearty breakfast (including white and black pudding). 4 pints of Guinness later, some larrikin Irish blokes telling stories with every second word fk dis, and fk dat ... and time to drag Pete home to bed.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Kissed the Blarney Stone
Wednesday 10 December 2008, Tramore - Killarney, Ireland
Left Tramore and headed straight for Midleton where the Old Jamesons Distillery is. This distillery is 200 years old, and the buildings have been restored to their former glory. Behind is the new distillery that brews up batches of Jamesons to be blended with other batches of Jamesons around the country. We were able to do a tasting which is highly recommended, comparing Jamesons against Johnny Walker Black, and Jack Daniels Black, and were the last to leave helping everyone else finish off theirs too. Heading onto Cork we went to Blarney Castle to kiss the Blarney Stone giving us the all important gift of the gab. As our camera wasn't working when I kissed the stone, I did it twice so Pete could get another snap to prove what had happened - so I get twice as much gab. We then headed to Killarney where it was starting to get dark and found the Railway Hostel where we shared a dorm with an Aussie girl from WA. Dinner of Shepherds Pie down the pub with pint, then off for an early night to bed. Pictures - Pete finishing off his last drink at the Jamesons Distillery, Blarney Castle, the keeper of the Blarney Stone, me coming up for air after kissing the stone twice.
Left Tramore and headed straight for Midleton where the Old Jamesons Distillery is. This distillery is 200 years old, and the buildings have been restored to their former glory. Behind is the new distillery that brews up batches of Jamesons to be blended with other batches of Jamesons around the country. We were able to do a tasting which is highly recommended, comparing Jamesons against Johnny Walker Black, and Jack Daniels Black, and were the last to leave helping everyone else finish off theirs too. Heading onto Cork we went to Blarney Castle to kiss the Blarney Stone giving us the all important gift of the gab. As our camera wasn't working when I kissed the stone, I did it twice so Pete could get another snap to prove what had happened - so I get twice as much gab. We then headed to Killarney where it was starting to get dark and found the Railway Hostel where we shared a dorm with an Aussie girl from WA. Dinner of Shepherds Pie down the pub with pint, then off for an early night to bed. Pictures - Pete finishing off his last drink at the Jamesons Distillery, Blarney Castle, the keeper of the Blarney Stone, me coming up for air after kissing the stone twice.
Vegemite!
Tuesday 9 December 2008, Kilkenny - Tramore, Ireland
Well we didn't get very far today. Did some grocery shopping thismorning as prices at cafes are pretty expensive, so hopefully the few bits and pieces we got will tie us over for a little bit. The big purchase of the day was a jar of vegemite at a health food shop. Yes this is the stuff they ban in the U.S. for some unknown reason (probably too much vitamin B in it, or it doubles as bomb making material), so while salivating, ran to the shop to get some butter and some bread, back to the hostel, bread in the toaster, butter & vegemite at the ready, toast done, butter & vegemite on, and before the butter could melt, toast in the mouth. OMG, didn't realise how much we were missing it. We also did a tour of Kilkenny Castle. Its a beautiful castle with magnificent grounds. The tour is good and goes into detail about the Butler Family who until 40 years ago had lived in the Castle for 400+ years.
We then headed to Waterford where Waterford Crystal is made. It was 3pm but there were no tours as the workers finish early in winter. We watched a 10min DVD while we were there which went into a little detail of the makings of crystal and it was pretty impressive. Every piece is hand blown and carved.
Our plan was then to head onto Cork but it was now getting late and as the sun goes down at 5pm we stopped in Tramore at the Beach Haven Hostel. This is pretty much a summer seaside town, with a lovely long beach. You can just imagine it being standing room only down by the dock during summer, but on our cold winters evening we were it. Had very very tasty fish and chips at Dooleys, followed up with a pint of Bulmers and Guinness at the Old Vic. Tramore is a lovely place, no street signs, helpful people. While we were at the pub we were talking to the publican who had said that 600 had just been laid off at a factory where pork is processed. Ireland is going into a recession and it is the worst time for them just before Christmas. Pictures - Kilkenny Castle, The Boardwalk in Tramore, and a message to the youth.
Well we didn't get very far today. Did some grocery shopping thismorning as prices at cafes are pretty expensive, so hopefully the few bits and pieces we got will tie us over for a little bit. The big purchase of the day was a jar of vegemite at a health food shop. Yes this is the stuff they ban in the U.S. for some unknown reason (probably too much vitamin B in it, or it doubles as bomb making material), so while salivating, ran to the shop to get some butter and some bread, back to the hostel, bread in the toaster, butter & vegemite at the ready, toast done, butter & vegemite on, and before the butter could melt, toast in the mouth. OMG, didn't realise how much we were missing it. We also did a tour of Kilkenny Castle. Its a beautiful castle with magnificent grounds. The tour is good and goes into detail about the Butler Family who until 40 years ago had lived in the Castle for 400+ years.
We then headed to Waterford where Waterford Crystal is made. It was 3pm but there were no tours as the workers finish early in winter. We watched a 10min DVD while we were there which went into a little detail of the makings of crystal and it was pretty impressive. Every piece is hand blown and carved.
Our plan was then to head onto Cork but it was now getting late and as the sun goes down at 5pm we stopped in Tramore at the Beach Haven Hostel. This is pretty much a summer seaside town, with a lovely long beach. You can just imagine it being standing room only down by the dock during summer, but on our cold winters evening we were it. Had very very tasty fish and chips at Dooleys, followed up with a pint of Bulmers and Guinness at the Old Vic. Tramore is a lovely place, no street signs, helpful people. While we were at the pub we were talking to the publican who had said that 600 had just been laid off at a factory where pork is processed. Ireland is going into a recession and it is the worst time for them just before Christmas. Pictures - Kilkenny Castle, The Boardwalk in Tramore, and a message to the youth.
Kilkennt in Kilkenny
Monday 8 December 2008, Dublin - Kilkenny, Ireland
Dublin is expensive! and, thats not the just coming from 3 third world countries talking. Pete had a pretty disastrous night with his belly bug, up most of the night. As it was clear today was not a day for drinking at the Guinness Brewery or the Jamesons Distillery, or any other touristy things in Dublin we decided to hit the road early and come back to Dublin at the end of our stay when we could enjoy the brewery experience. Today we made our way through Bray and onto Glendalough. Glendalough is a beautiful village with the ruins of a settlement of St Kevin. Yes St Kevin, no St Jason or St Kylie, St Kevin. St Kevin was a monk who spread the word of the good lord to the village of Glendalough. We then made our way to Enniscorthy which is more well known for its bloody thirsty rebellion from Vinegar Hill on 1798. We got there just on sunset and the views are certainly perfect for a rebel uprising. Then tried to get some accommodation along our way, going through Bunclody and eventually ending up at Kilkenny finding a hostel for 20 euros pp. Dinner down the pub with Guinness and Wine Stew matched with some Kilkenny from the brewery behind. Perfect dinner! We've also arrived in the middle of a pork scare. We haven't had any pork products to eat so we are fine, but it must be hitting the industry pretty hard to have every pork product taken off the shelves.
Picture - Vinegar Hill, Enniscorthy
Dublin is expensive! and, thats not the just coming from 3 third world countries talking. Pete had a pretty disastrous night with his belly bug, up most of the night. As it was clear today was not a day for drinking at the Guinness Brewery or the Jamesons Distillery, or any other touristy things in Dublin we decided to hit the road early and come back to Dublin at the end of our stay when we could enjoy the brewery experience. Today we made our way through Bray and onto Glendalough. Glendalough is a beautiful village with the ruins of a settlement of St Kevin. Yes St Kevin, no St Jason or St Kylie, St Kevin. St Kevin was a monk who spread the word of the good lord to the village of Glendalough. We then made our way to Enniscorthy which is more well known for its bloody thirsty rebellion from Vinegar Hill on 1798. We got there just on sunset and the views are certainly perfect for a rebel uprising. Then tried to get some accommodation along our way, going through Bunclody and eventually ending up at Kilkenny finding a hostel for 20 euros pp. Dinner down the pub with Guinness and Wine Stew matched with some Kilkenny from the brewery behind. Perfect dinner! We've also arrived in the middle of a pork scare. We haven't had any pork products to eat so we are fine, but it must be hitting the industry pretty hard to have every pork product taken off the shelves.
Picture - Vinegar Hill, Enniscorthy
Its been a long day
Sunday 7 December 2008, Cairo, Egypt - Dublin, Ireland
Up and early start to get to the airport. We were warned there might be delays in our travels because of the celebrations at this time of year in Cairo, but we were actually at the airport pretty early. That is along the way the taxi had to stop for gas, (45c per cubic meter), then we still had to run the gauntlet of absolutely everyone asking for money. A stranger runs to the taxi, grabs your bags and puts them on a trolley, before you can get out the words, 'please leave them' he is asking for money, then the inspector at the security check is asking for money saying he will get you first in line, then the staff at check in are asking for money to sit you beside each other, then the next check in tells you, 'you have a knife in your bag' even though you don't, oh but if you pay it will be okay. It is exhausting and must be for them as well. Pete hadn't been feeling well, and by the time we got on the plane had gone into a fever. 4 blankets later and shivering Pete was on his way to being rejected from entering the UK as he turned a slight shade of pale and was appearing like he had come down with some Mummy Flu. But by the time we got there, 5 hours later, the fever had started to subside. Arriving at Heathrow was interesting. We thought it was going to take forever and really it was all fine. We arrived at Terminal 5 which is a new terminal at Heathrow, we then needed to catch a train to Terminal 1 and find our way to BMI Airlines to get our connection to Dublin. That is via immigration and customs, and a lot of walking. But we got there. I had also received an email from Mum earlier to contact her as she had some 'sad news'. I had tried to call from Cairo before we left a couple of times, but couldn't get through, so when we arrived at Heathrow I got a phone card and finally got through. News was that my darling cat Manuel had been put down. He had developed a severe kidney infection and was operated on but they said they couldn't do anything for him. It was very sad news. So while we sat at Heathrow waiting for our Dublin flight Pete and I were in tears wishing that we had been home for him. Of course it is not news you want to hear, but it is still something you want to know. So with all of our transferring and ringing around we didn't have time to do much at Heathrow. I bought a Lonely Planet guide for Ireland, a phone card, and shed a lot of tears.
We arrived in Ireland about 5:30pm and it was dark. Still had to organise car hire and accommodation, and pretty quick as Pete really needed to collapse somewhere. Ended up with a car from 353 Car Hire. Don't know if all UK/Ireland car hire is the same but its all basically a rip off. They give you cheap prices, then freeze 1200 pounds off your credit card just in case you have an accident and need to claim and astronomical petrol costs on top. Accommodation was at Landsowne Hotel, also deceptive in its promotion. We were looking for somewhere with a guest laundry, free wifi, and breakfast, all of which were promoted on its web page. No guest laundry - they send it out and charge you, no free wifi - free computer in reception for 20minutes, 3 euro per 30min from your bedroom, and full breakfast is 12.50 euro. Seems it doesn't matter which country you are in there is deception in what is included. Pete was pretty exhuasted from his day in a fever so it was early to bed and see what tomorrow would bring. Picture - Manuel in his prime position out in the sun out the back.
Up and early start to get to the airport. We were warned there might be delays in our travels because of the celebrations at this time of year in Cairo, but we were actually at the airport pretty early. That is along the way the taxi had to stop for gas, (45c per cubic meter), then we still had to run the gauntlet of absolutely everyone asking for money. A stranger runs to the taxi, grabs your bags and puts them on a trolley, before you can get out the words, 'please leave them' he is asking for money, then the inspector at the security check is asking for money saying he will get you first in line, then the staff at check in are asking for money to sit you beside each other, then the next check in tells you, 'you have a knife in your bag' even though you don't, oh but if you pay it will be okay. It is exhausting and must be for them as well. Pete hadn't been feeling well, and by the time we got on the plane had gone into a fever. 4 blankets later and shivering Pete was on his way to being rejected from entering the UK as he turned a slight shade of pale and was appearing like he had come down with some Mummy Flu. But by the time we got there, 5 hours later, the fever had started to subside. Arriving at Heathrow was interesting. We thought it was going to take forever and really it was all fine. We arrived at Terminal 5 which is a new terminal at Heathrow, we then needed to catch a train to Terminal 1 and find our way to BMI Airlines to get our connection to Dublin. That is via immigration and customs, and a lot of walking. But we got there. I had also received an email from Mum earlier to contact her as she had some 'sad news'. I had tried to call from Cairo before we left a couple of times, but couldn't get through, so when we arrived at Heathrow I got a phone card and finally got through. News was that my darling cat Manuel had been put down. He had developed a severe kidney infection and was operated on but they said they couldn't do anything for him. It was very sad news. So while we sat at Heathrow waiting for our Dublin flight Pete and I were in tears wishing that we had been home for him. Of course it is not news you want to hear, but it is still something you want to know. So with all of our transferring and ringing around we didn't have time to do much at Heathrow. I bought a Lonely Planet guide for Ireland, a phone card, and shed a lot of tears.
We arrived in Ireland about 5:30pm and it was dark. Still had to organise car hire and accommodation, and pretty quick as Pete really needed to collapse somewhere. Ended up with a car from 353 Car Hire. Don't know if all UK/Ireland car hire is the same but its all basically a rip off. They give you cheap prices, then freeze 1200 pounds off your credit card just in case you have an accident and need to claim and astronomical petrol costs on top. Accommodation was at Landsowne Hotel, also deceptive in its promotion. We were looking for somewhere with a guest laundry, free wifi, and breakfast, all of which were promoted on its web page. No guest laundry - they send it out and charge you, no free wifi - free computer in reception for 20minutes, 3 euro per 30min from your bedroom, and full breakfast is 12.50 euro. Seems it doesn't matter which country you are in there is deception in what is included. Pete was pretty exhuasted from his day in a fever so it was early to bed and see what tomorrow would bring. Picture - Manuel in his prime position out in the sun out the back.
Mummies Gallore
Saturday 6 December 2008 - Cairo, Egypt
Arrived back in Cairo at 6am. Slept on the train this time, and it arrived on time, once again a first in 12 months. But it arrived at Giza, and we thought it was dropping us in Cairo. Luckily we found a Brit that knew Cairo pretty well and was taking the subway, so we followed him and got our tickets to our station. Without him we would have been pretty stuffed I think as we didn't know where the station was, how to get there, how much it cost or what station to get off. Our arabic is kind of, well, not up to date. Arrived back at the hostel by 7am and Pete was ready for a big sleep. While he slept I caught up on some reading and trying to do a bit of research about Ireland and the sites we could get to while we are there. I woke up Sleeping Beauty at midday, and we headed off to the Cairo Museum, our last thing we really wanted to get to. What do you say ... its filled with Mummies. There is a pretty serious scanning process just to get in the doors of the museum as you go through 2 x-ray machines, as does your belongings. Then I was told quite sternly that I had a knife in my bag, a pocket knife no less. I insisted that I didn't. But yes, apparently I did. I was ready to cause a scene, take everything out of my bag, and proove I wasn't there to make a sandwich. When I got the, oh no its okay, you can go. Its the old, test em out theory and try and bribe em trick. So over it.
There is a strict no photography rule at the museum, but once again it still doesn't stop the police from trying to sneak you into an area to use your camera then bribe you. We saw plenty of tourists being done. Of course if you don't pay then they will report you for taking a picture and its like a $10,000 fine.
This museum is everything you dream of when you think of a real museum. Dust is floating through the air as the sunlight beams through the high windows, there is that stale smell in the air, and it is relatively as quiet as a library. Everything they have pinched from tombs and pyramids is in here, so it is packed with so much stuff, 120,000 objects or so. And, lots of mummies! The highlight is King Tuts groovy stuff. He was the boy king that died at 19 years of age, so that meant that they didn't have much time to prepare his tomb and gifts for the afterlife. But that does your head in even more. This was the only tomb that hadn't been robbed by grave robbers, so it was the only one where the whole world can see the amazing treasures that were sealed away for thousands of years, and this was for a young King. Imagine what all the other treasures for all those other Kings would have been like. King Tuts belongings were covered in gold including chariots, and the upteen layers of what was inside and out of his sarcophagus.
In the evening our hostel organised a cruise on the Nile for us which included dinner and some belly dancing. It all sounded very appealing and we were willing to see what it was like. 'No Smoking' signs everywhere, but there must be exceptions for the crew. I think 'No Smoking' signs in Egypt are a suggestion rather than mandatory. The meal was really lovely and we were serenaded by an Egyptian one-man band singing western songs in a Arabic accent. Part of the experience. Then there was some Arabic singing which was really interesting and it was clear that the Egyptians on board really enjoyed it as they were up dancing, and singing along ... must have been part of the Top 40? Then came the belly dancer. She was pretty good, and I think they are right when they say that Egyptian women have belly dancing in their blood. We were captured by a photographer as she came up behind us. We didn't pay the 10 pounds for the picture but a got a photo of it as it was on the table. Pete tells me he looked surprised when she came up behind us (the picture is below). She was then followed up by another dancer, I don't know what type of dancing it is specifically called but basically he wears a coloured skirt and spins round in circles for about 30 minutes while playing finger cymbals, filling glasses of water, spinning his skirt over his head, it was really entertaining.
There is a strict no photography rule at the museum, but once again it still doesn't stop the police from trying to sneak you into an area to use your camera then bribe you. We saw plenty of tourists being done. Of course if you don't pay then they will report you for taking a picture and its like a $10,000 fine.
This museum is everything you dream of when you think of a real museum. Dust is floating through the air as the sunlight beams through the high windows, there is that stale smell in the air, and it is relatively as quiet as a library. Everything they have pinched from tombs and pyramids is in here, so it is packed with so much stuff, 120,000 objects or so. And, lots of mummies! The highlight is King Tuts groovy stuff. He was the boy king that died at 19 years of age, so that meant that they didn't have much time to prepare his tomb and gifts for the afterlife. But that does your head in even more. This was the only tomb that hadn't been robbed by grave robbers, so it was the only one where the whole world can see the amazing treasures that were sealed away for thousands of years, and this was for a young King. Imagine what all the other treasures for all those other Kings would have been like. King Tuts belongings were covered in gold including chariots, and the upteen layers of what was inside and out of his sarcophagus.
In the evening our hostel organised a cruise on the Nile for us which included dinner and some belly dancing. It all sounded very appealing and we were willing to see what it was like. 'No Smoking' signs everywhere, but there must be exceptions for the crew. I think 'No Smoking' signs in Egypt are a suggestion rather than mandatory. The meal was really lovely and we were serenaded by an Egyptian one-man band singing western songs in a Arabic accent. Part of the experience. Then there was some Arabic singing which was really interesting and it was clear that the Egyptians on board really enjoyed it as they were up dancing, and singing along ... must have been part of the Top 40? Then came the belly dancer. She was pretty good, and I think they are right when they say that Egyptian women have belly dancing in their blood. We were captured by a photographer as she came up behind us. We didn't pay the 10 pounds for the picture but a got a photo of it as it was on the table. Pete tells me he looked surprised when she came up behind us (the picture is below). She was then followed up by another dancer, I don't know what type of dancing it is specifically called but basically he wears a coloured skirt and spins round in circles for about 30 minutes while playing finger cymbals, filling glasses of water, spinning his skirt over his head, it was really entertaining.
Ballooning over the Valley of the Kings
Friday 5 December 2008 - Luxor, Egypt
Today had been a long time coming as one of our big wishes was to go ballooning in Egypt. We were hoping to go over the pyramids at Giza, but it wasn't to be, but this was pretty special all the same. Like most ballooning trips it starts with an early rise before sunrise to catch the cold air being trapped by the warm upper currents at the sun hits the earth in the morning. There would have been about 10 balloons going up at the same time, and still in the darkness there were children pulling at your clothes wanting you to buy something from them. We are so lucky to live in a country where we do not send our children off to work at 4am to peddle their wares and earn an income for the family. Some tourists find it frustrating, and it can get to you after a little while, but really it is sad that this is the only life they know. The balloons set sail and we were peering over the edge, the lush green of Luxor on one side, and the harsh desert on the other. Hot Chicken Soups temple below us and onto the Valley of the Kings and Queens. The sun rose and silouetted the other balloons beautifully. Then we had a very casual crash landing in the desert, where our pilot was giving his co-pilot lessons on how to empty the air out the balloon. This took about 10 minutes of yelling and hitting and well done, until we were allowed out of the balloon. Its all part of the experience. Then out of no-where, the donkey boys arrived. 3 boys atop donkeys, galloping along in the desert, arrived at our balloon, ready to pose for a photo or two. One picture was taken, money was exchanged with a boy, and that was it, the donkey boys were following us everywhere. Once again it must be a difficult life to send your children out to work at such a young age. Our ride showed up, and we were soon off to our hotel, well, we thought we were ... we got lost, in the desert. How do you get lost? Well, there are huge rocks in the desert and the vans that came to pick us up followed a semi-road, but then lost the trail. So round in circles for a while, into ditches, out of ditches, donkey boys still in toe, and finally back on track. We knew we were back on track when the boys galloped off to find another landing balloon. In the van were a couple from LA, and another couple from Perth ... hi guys, hope you've found you're way home alright and no donkey boys followed you home.
We then went back to the hotel for a bit of sleep, check out the roof top for a view over Luxor, and a buggy ride around the city. Our buggy driver, Ali, kept insisting he was going to give us a very good ride, take us to a market, and stop to get some feed and water for Rocky (his horse). Of course 'market' meant drop us off at another carpet/perfume/papyrus dealer who gave Ali a commission for dropping us there. A short lived experience, but an experience all the same.
In the afternoon we went to Karnak & Luxor Temple. Both are on the East Bank, and being on the East Bank, is the side of the sunrise, and dedicated to rebirth and life. Karnak is a huge temple complex, that is linked with Luxor Temple. It is filled with columns, walls, and hieroglyphics with hundreds of stories. Again, another whole day could be dedicated here with a private guide to take you into all the nooks and cranies to get the low down on everything. Luxor Temple is much smaller in comparison to Karnak, but amazing all the same with its rows of sphinx and giant Colossus' of Ramesses II.
Evening soon upon us and time to head for the train back to Cairo. The train was late this time as a military train came through the station and didn't move for 30 minutes. While we were waiting we were talking with some young Egyptian boys who were waiting at the station with their parents. They spoke english very well and were just as interested in meeting us as we were with them. They were full of fun and cheakiness, and were also very loving of each other. We also saw soldiers getting off the train, and parting ways. It was obviously a time of goodbyes and we saw tears, heart felt hugs, and exchanging of hats. It was very moving to witness and once again another side to the people of Egypt. Picture shows the boys surrounding another van, us in the balloon, and our view at sunrise.
We then went back to the hotel for a bit of sleep, check out the roof top for a view over Luxor, and a buggy ride around the city. Our buggy driver, Ali, kept insisting he was going to give us a very good ride, take us to a market, and stop to get some feed and water for Rocky (his horse). Of course 'market' meant drop us off at another carpet/perfume/papyrus dealer who gave Ali a commission for dropping us there. A short lived experience, but an experience all the same.
In the afternoon we went to Karnak & Luxor Temple. Both are on the East Bank, and being on the East Bank, is the side of the sunrise, and dedicated to rebirth and life. Karnak is a huge temple complex, that is linked with Luxor Temple. It is filled with columns, walls, and hieroglyphics with hundreds of stories. Again, another whole day could be dedicated here with a private guide to take you into all the nooks and cranies to get the low down on everything. Luxor Temple is much smaller in comparison to Karnak, but amazing all the same with its rows of sphinx and giant Colossus' of Ramesses II.
Evening soon upon us and time to head for the train back to Cairo. The train was late this time as a military train came through the station and didn't move for 30 minutes. While we were waiting we were talking with some young Egyptian boys who were waiting at the station with their parents. They spoke english very well and were just as interested in meeting us as we were with them. They were full of fun and cheakiness, and were also very loving of each other. We also saw soldiers getting off the train, and parting ways. It was obviously a time of goodbyes and we saw tears, heart felt hugs, and exchanging of hats. It was very moving to witness and once again another side to the people of Egypt. Picture shows the boys surrounding another van, us in the balloon, and our view at sunrise.
Valley of the Kings & Queens
Thursday 4 December 2008 - Luxor, Egypt
1st time in 12 months the train was on time and we arrived at Luxor station at 6am. Surrounded by taxi drivers all wanting our business, along with tour guides telling us that our contact was not going to pick us up and we should go with them. It was like trying to fend off seagulls mad about a chip 'mine, mine, mine, mine' like in Finding Nemo. Eventually a trustworthy looking tour guide offered to make a call for us. He called Muhammad from our hostel in Cairo, who then called Yussuf, our guide in Luxor, and were told not to worry he was on his way. All in all we waited about 30 minutes for Yussuf to come and collect us. But everything ended up fine. Yussuf took us to our hotel, the Queens Valley, and because he was late offered to take us to lunch after our morning tour.
Our tour started with the West Bank, dedicated to the dead, as is the belief of the Egyptians that the West is for the going down of the sun and ending of this life.
We went to Queen Hatshepsut's (pronounced Hot Chicken Soup or Hot Cheap Suit) Temple, along with the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. You've got to give it to Hot Cheap Suit - she was the first born, and deserved to be Pharaoh, but Egypt had this boys only club thing going on. To cut a long story short, she invented a story that she was the offspring of Ra the sun god, and then had her hieroglyphics presenting her wearing a beard to tell the people underneath she was really a man. At the end of her life she also had herself buried in the Valley of the Kings as she claimed herself to be Pharaoh of Egypt, but because her tomb goes so deep into the mountain it is probably under the Valley of the Queens anyway. She built some great temples and did some great work with obelisks as well. Her successor, her half brother, then tried to erase her image for the history books by having her hieroglyphics scratched out. Didn't work. Ha ha. Once again saw the police tricking tourists into handing over cameras, taking their picture and then not letting them leave until they had given them enough money. Another thing that happens is that they will start to tell you what the hieroglyphics mean, and if you don't walk away, then you will be up for more money for listening.
Then onto the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. In the Valley of the Kings you are only able to visit 3 tombs with your ticket, and you have to pay extra to see King Tut's tomb. We visited the tomb of Ramesses I, III and IX. Some had enormous detail in the hieroglyphics, while others had the basics. The main reason was that as soon as a King or Queen started their reign their tomb was started. When they died, 60 days was given for mummification and to complete final preparations for burial. So if they lived a really long life, they got a really good tomb because they had been working on it for 40+ years. However, if they had a short reign, say 6 months, then the tomb may not be as deep, may not be carved, and may just have paint work throughout.
In the tombs of the Valley of the Queens the biggest difference to the Kings is the colours used in the hieroglyphics. They are softer and actually more feminine. Went into a few tombs but the main one we saw was Queen Nefertari's tomb.
Yussuf also kept to his word, and after our trip we were dropped at a restaurant on the Nile for a buffet. We watched the world go by with boats coming and going while trying to make sure we weren't eating seafood or anything else that could have been soaked in cold water. Our belly's can't take any more trauma!
1st time in 12 months the train was on time and we arrived at Luxor station at 6am. Surrounded by taxi drivers all wanting our business, along with tour guides telling us that our contact was not going to pick us up and we should go with them. It was like trying to fend off seagulls mad about a chip 'mine, mine, mine, mine' like in Finding Nemo. Eventually a trustworthy looking tour guide offered to make a call for us. He called Muhammad from our hostel in Cairo, who then called Yussuf, our guide in Luxor, and were told not to worry he was on his way. All in all we waited about 30 minutes for Yussuf to come and collect us. But everything ended up fine. Yussuf took us to our hotel, the Queens Valley, and because he was late offered to take us to lunch after our morning tour.
Our tour started with the West Bank, dedicated to the dead, as is the belief of the Egyptians that the West is for the going down of the sun and ending of this life.
We went to Queen Hatshepsut's (pronounced Hot Chicken Soup or Hot Cheap Suit) Temple, along with the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. You've got to give it to Hot Cheap Suit - she was the first born, and deserved to be Pharaoh, but Egypt had this boys only club thing going on. To cut a long story short, she invented a story that she was the offspring of Ra the sun god, and then had her hieroglyphics presenting her wearing a beard to tell the people underneath she was really a man. At the end of her life she also had herself buried in the Valley of the Kings as she claimed herself to be Pharaoh of Egypt, but because her tomb goes so deep into the mountain it is probably under the Valley of the Queens anyway. She built some great temples and did some great work with obelisks as well. Her successor, her half brother, then tried to erase her image for the history books by having her hieroglyphics scratched out. Didn't work. Ha ha. Once again saw the police tricking tourists into handing over cameras, taking their picture and then not letting them leave until they had given them enough money. Another thing that happens is that they will start to tell you what the hieroglyphics mean, and if you don't walk away, then you will be up for more money for listening.
Then onto the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. In the Valley of the Kings you are only able to visit 3 tombs with your ticket, and you have to pay extra to see King Tut's tomb. We visited the tomb of Ramesses I, III and IX. Some had enormous detail in the hieroglyphics, while others had the basics. The main reason was that as soon as a King or Queen started their reign their tomb was started. When they died, 60 days was given for mummification and to complete final preparations for burial. So if they lived a really long life, they got a really good tomb because they had been working on it for 40+ years. However, if they had a short reign, say 6 months, then the tomb may not be as deep, may not be carved, and may just have paint work throughout.
In the tombs of the Valley of the Queens the biggest difference to the Kings is the colours used in the hieroglyphics. They are softer and actually more feminine. Went into a few tombs but the main one we saw was Queen Nefertari's tomb.
Yussuf also kept to his word, and after our trip we were dropped at a restaurant on the Nile for a buffet. We watched the world go by with boats coming and going while trying to make sure we weren't eating seafood or anything else that could have been soaked in cold water. Our belly's can't take any more trauma!
The Great Pyramid
Wednesday 3 December 2008, Cairo, Egypt
There are over 100 pyramids in Egypt, and pyramids is what we are here for, so today we Saqqara and Giza. The Brothers Hostel had organised a personal guide for us to take us around including also being dragged into the obligatory sales. We first went to Saqqara where we actually went inside a pyramid. You first walk half way up the pyramid, then you walk (crawl) down what feels like a 45 degree angle down inside the pyramid into where the tombs were. The smell is intense of ammonia and by the 3rd tomb it becomes a little hard to breathe and you are longing to get out and get some fresh air. In Egypt everyone is your 'friend'. 'My friend, my friend, how much for this, how much for that'. Or they don't ask you, and give you something, then want the money for it. It the tombs it says that photography is not allowed, however, a guard will pull you aside and say 'its okay, I take photo for you', you are then bailed up and not allowed to leave until you have handed over enough money to get yourself out.
We were then taken to a carpet school where they have children making silk, wool and camel hair carpets by hand. The children learn their skill in conjunction with going to school. The government pays them and it is considered a scholarship of sorts to learn this trade at an early age. The finished works are then sold at astronomical prices to tourists who are told they are cheap. This is very similar to the process of getting a taxi in Thailand where you are taken to the obligatory gem shop where the cab driver gets a commission just for taking you there along the way. Anyway, the silk rug that we looked at was on special reduced to 54,000 Egyptian pounds to 36,000 Egyptian pounds .... around 18,000 AUD. Lucky it was on sale because then I considered it for a good half second rather than a quarter of a second. We then ended up at a papyrus store, which I did find interesting. They demonstrated to us the technique for stripping the papyrus reeds, what materials are used in fakes and looked at completed works. We ended up getting 2 works, but of course we got a very good deal from 'our friend'.
We then finally got to Giza, got on some horses organised by 'our friend' who gave us a 'vedy vedy good price' and went through the desert on horseback to the pyramids. It was amazing coming up over the dunes to the site of the pyramids. Our new 'friend' was actually was the brother of a friend of our friend. He wasn't too bad at getting us around on horseback as well as taking some pictures for us. Pete got trapped in the 'Welcome to Egypt' business being passed a softdrink on the way through the gate and being told it was part of the ticket, then they wouldn't let us go any further until he got paid his 5 egyptian pounds. Back to the pyramids - absolutely wonderful, huge and everything you expect them to be. Our friend took some great pictures of us on the horses which i'll upload asap.
Our long day finished with a trip to the train station for a 1st class sleeper cabin to Luxor. The train departs at 8:30pm from Giza, and normally gets in at 8am in Luxor even though its meant to arrive at 6am. The train is meant to be 1st class and I would say in Egypt it probably is, well at least you have horizontal bed. I couldn't sleep until about 3am when I was that exhausted the occasional levitating out of the bunk because of the bad train lines didn't seem to bother me anymore.
There are over 100 pyramids in Egypt, and pyramids is what we are here for, so today we Saqqara and Giza. The Brothers Hostel had organised a personal guide for us to take us around including also being dragged into the obligatory sales. We first went to Saqqara where we actually went inside a pyramid. You first walk half way up the pyramid, then you walk (crawl) down what feels like a 45 degree angle down inside the pyramid into where the tombs were. The smell is intense of ammonia and by the 3rd tomb it becomes a little hard to breathe and you are longing to get out and get some fresh air. In Egypt everyone is your 'friend'. 'My friend, my friend, how much for this, how much for that'. Or they don't ask you, and give you something, then want the money for it. It the tombs it says that photography is not allowed, however, a guard will pull you aside and say 'its okay, I take photo for you', you are then bailed up and not allowed to leave until you have handed over enough money to get yourself out.
We were then taken to a carpet school where they have children making silk, wool and camel hair carpets by hand. The children learn their skill in conjunction with going to school. The government pays them and it is considered a scholarship of sorts to learn this trade at an early age. The finished works are then sold at astronomical prices to tourists who are told they are cheap. This is very similar to the process of getting a taxi in Thailand where you are taken to the obligatory gem shop where the cab driver gets a commission just for taking you there along the way. Anyway, the silk rug that we looked at was on special reduced to 54,000 Egyptian pounds to 36,000 Egyptian pounds .... around 18,000 AUD. Lucky it was on sale because then I considered it for a good half second rather than a quarter of a second. We then ended up at a papyrus store, which I did find interesting. They demonstrated to us the technique for stripping the papyrus reeds, what materials are used in fakes and looked at completed works. We ended up getting 2 works, but of course we got a very good deal from 'our friend'.
We then finally got to Giza, got on some horses organised by 'our friend' who gave us a 'vedy vedy good price' and went through the desert on horseback to the pyramids. It was amazing coming up over the dunes to the site of the pyramids. Our new 'friend' was actually was the brother of a friend of our friend. He wasn't too bad at getting us around on horseback as well as taking some pictures for us. Pete got trapped in the 'Welcome to Egypt' business being passed a softdrink on the way through the gate and being told it was part of the ticket, then they wouldn't let us go any further until he got paid his 5 egyptian pounds. Back to the pyramids - absolutely wonderful, huge and everything you expect them to be. Our friend took some great pictures of us on the horses which i'll upload asap.
Our long day finished with a trip to the train station for a 1st class sleeper cabin to Luxor. The train departs at 8:30pm from Giza, and normally gets in at 8am in Luxor even though its meant to arrive at 6am. The train is meant to be 1st class and I would say in Egypt it probably is, well at least you have horizontal bed. I couldn't sleep until about 3am when I was that exhausted the occasional levitating out of the bunk because of the bad train lines didn't seem to bother me anymore.
Giza here we come
2 December 2008, Madrid, Spain - Cairo, Egypt
Its hard to believe we are in Cairo. It has felt like time has stood still and we are just floating from one amazing place to another. Our day was pretty relaxed as we packed, and went for a final stroll around the streets of Peurta de Sol where I picked up some spanish fans, and a set of tarot cards. Last minute email off to our hostel in Cairo to confirm our pick up at the airport and we were off. Our trip to the airport was a bit cheaper this time at 25 euros, but still took forever to get to our gate. There are heaps of terminals at Madrid airport so first you need to make sure you are dropped at the right terminal, then you go down to catch a train to the satellite terminal, then you need to find your gate. It is about 30min from check-in to get to your gate. The Egyptians are funny as well. While we were all waiting patiently at our gate, there seemed to be a subliminal message sent to all the Egyptians who suddenly stood and lined up. No announcement had been made, but it seemed like they didn't want to miss out. 45 minutes later, our flight was finally called ... and they were all still in line. We also shared the flight with the Egyptian Handball Team, who were very excited by spending their last euro's at the chip vending machine! The flight was like no other we had had. It seemed the Egyptians had ants in their pants as they were all up and down out of their seats all through the flight, noise was also something that they all seemed to find endearing, while the rest of us longed for a little quite to get some sleep.
First impressions of Egypt airport were a little feeling like we'd gone down a rabbit hole somewhere. As soon as we had landed the Egyptians clapped loudly and were of course lined up at the door of the plane ready to get off. Why did they clap? Is landing a plane safely some miracle here? Should we have been more worried? Why did they want to get off so quickly? The flight crew had had enough, and had continued to ask them to sit down and buckle up, and I think they were ready to tell the pilot to turn the plane around and go back to Madrid.
Customs was no problem - welcome to Cairo was about it. We were then met by our contact from Hostel Brothers. Some guy grabbed our bags and helped us onto a bus, then stood in Pete's face and wouldn't let him get on until they were given money 'Welcome to Egypt'.
Our hostel was great, and the brothers that run it know what they are up to. By the time we got in, it was 12:30am. By 1am we had our 4 days in Cairo sorted out and booked. Wednesday - Giza Pyramids, Thursday - Luxor West Bank, Friday - Luxor Balloon and East Bank, Saturday - Cairo Museum and Cruise the Nile, Sunday - depart. Whirl wind trip of Cairo but all sounded great. Got to bed around 3am.
Its hard to believe we are in Cairo. It has felt like time has stood still and we are just floating from one amazing place to another. Our day was pretty relaxed as we packed, and went for a final stroll around the streets of Peurta de Sol where I picked up some spanish fans, and a set of tarot cards. Last minute email off to our hostel in Cairo to confirm our pick up at the airport and we were off. Our trip to the airport was a bit cheaper this time at 25 euros, but still took forever to get to our gate. There are heaps of terminals at Madrid airport so first you need to make sure you are dropped at the right terminal, then you go down to catch a train to the satellite terminal, then you need to find your gate. It is about 30min from check-in to get to your gate. The Egyptians are funny as well. While we were all waiting patiently at our gate, there seemed to be a subliminal message sent to all the Egyptians who suddenly stood and lined up. No announcement had been made, but it seemed like they didn't want to miss out. 45 minutes later, our flight was finally called ... and they were all still in line. We also shared the flight with the Egyptian Handball Team, who were very excited by spending their last euro's at the chip vending machine! The flight was like no other we had had. It seemed the Egyptians had ants in their pants as they were all up and down out of their seats all through the flight, noise was also something that they all seemed to find endearing, while the rest of us longed for a little quite to get some sleep.
First impressions of Egypt airport were a little feeling like we'd gone down a rabbit hole somewhere. As soon as we had landed the Egyptians clapped loudly and were of course lined up at the door of the plane ready to get off. Why did they clap? Is landing a plane safely some miracle here? Should we have been more worried? Why did they want to get off so quickly? The flight crew had had enough, and had continued to ask them to sit down and buckle up, and I think they were ready to tell the pilot to turn the plane around and go back to Madrid.
Customs was no problem - welcome to Cairo was about it. We were then met by our contact from Hostel Brothers. Some guy grabbed our bags and helped us onto a bus, then stood in Pete's face and wouldn't let him get on until they were given money 'Welcome to Egypt'.
Our hostel was great, and the brothers that run it know what they are up to. By the time we got in, it was 12:30am. By 1am we had our 4 days in Cairo sorted out and booked. Wednesday - Giza Pyramids, Thursday - Luxor West Bank, Friday - Luxor Balloon and East Bank, Saturday - Cairo Museum and Cruise the Nile, Sunday - depart. Whirl wind trip of Cairo but all sounded great. Got to bed around 3am.
Monk time?
Monday 1 December 2008 - El Escorial, Spain
Today was a late rise, because of a wonderful late night with Raul. By the time we got up it was time to rush off to the metro, to get to Atocha Station to get a train to El Escorial. Atocha Station is huge and its really easy to get a bit lost in translation but we eventually found our way to getting a ticket to El Escorial, and finding our platform 2 minutes before the train was meant to depart. The journey there is about an hour and when we arrived it was bloody cold, and we had no idea where to go. A bus showed up at the train station and we asked him if he went to the monastery and in our basic translation found out that the monastery was closed on Monday's. Se La Vi. So we went up there any way and had a walk around. The area around the monastery was absolutely beautiful and it started snowing. We then went to a local hotel for some hot chocolate and croquets. The hot chocolate was so thick we had to eat it by the spoon. We wandered around for a while, it is an absolutely beautiful town and if we would have had more time would have stayed the night there and definitely gone to the monastery in the morning. We then tried to get a bus back to the station and the drivers were all a bit cranky and wouldn't let people on board so we walked, finding our way back and onto the 6.17pm train. When we arrived back in Madrid we thought we would walk back to Sol, and was walking by a McDonalds and we saw some people drinking beer. Had to go inside! Confirmed, McDonalds sells beer in Madrid, so we had to have some.
Then, we thought we might see if Raul was home from work yet and see if he wanted to go out for some dinner. Walked to his house and gave buzzed his flat, his flat mate let us up and let us know he wouldn't be long home. We sat chatting, drinking and waiting, and didn't realise how time was quickly ticking by. By the time Raul came home and we head out for something to eat it was 10pm. First he took us to a down to earth Spanish place that served tapas and we had traditional anchovies (that didn't taste like anchovies, actually tasted like fish! these guys are huge like they are on steroids), prawns and crockets along with a splash of beer, then we headed off to a hippie joint that you almost have to do a private handshake to get in. The front is like a normal entrance, and to ring the bell, you flick the light on and off, then someone comes to the door to check you out and let you in. We had some great chi tea, and an acquaintance of Raul's wrote us some poetry. It is apparently known for its poetry and musicians, particularly in trying to pick up women. Raul then shouted us a drink which was quite refreshing and had a mint type herb in it along with rum and lemon juice, quite tasty! The place was filled with smoke but had great atmosphere. We then headed off to a jazz bar which had the Canal Street Jazz Band playing. They were unreal, and we sat and enjoyed their playing for an hour or so. Raul was able to lend us some money so we could get their CD. I have already downloaded it onto the iRiver and can't wait to listen to it along out travels. It was almost like they had come straight from New Orleans. 3am home!
Today was a late rise, because of a wonderful late night with Raul. By the time we got up it was time to rush off to the metro, to get to Atocha Station to get a train to El Escorial. Atocha Station is huge and its really easy to get a bit lost in translation but we eventually found our way to getting a ticket to El Escorial, and finding our platform 2 minutes before the train was meant to depart. The journey there is about an hour and when we arrived it was bloody cold, and we had no idea where to go. A bus showed up at the train station and we asked him if he went to the monastery and in our basic translation found out that the monastery was closed on Monday's. Se La Vi. So we went up there any way and had a walk around. The area around the monastery was absolutely beautiful and it started snowing. We then went to a local hotel for some hot chocolate and croquets. The hot chocolate was so thick we had to eat it by the spoon. We wandered around for a while, it is an absolutely beautiful town and if we would have had more time would have stayed the night there and definitely gone to the monastery in the morning. We then tried to get a bus back to the station and the drivers were all a bit cranky and wouldn't let people on board so we walked, finding our way back and onto the 6.17pm train. When we arrived back in Madrid we thought we would walk back to Sol, and was walking by a McDonalds and we saw some people drinking beer. Had to go inside! Confirmed, McDonalds sells beer in Madrid, so we had to have some.
Then, we thought we might see if Raul was home from work yet and see if he wanted to go out for some dinner. Walked to his house and gave buzzed his flat, his flat mate let us up and let us know he wouldn't be long home. We sat chatting, drinking and waiting, and didn't realise how time was quickly ticking by. By the time Raul came home and we head out for something to eat it was 10pm. First he took us to a down to earth Spanish place that served tapas and we had traditional anchovies (that didn't taste like anchovies, actually tasted like fish! these guys are huge like they are on steroids), prawns and crockets along with a splash of beer, then we headed off to a hippie joint that you almost have to do a private handshake to get in. The front is like a normal entrance, and to ring the bell, you flick the light on and off, then someone comes to the door to check you out and let you in. We had some great chi tea, and an acquaintance of Raul's wrote us some poetry. It is apparently known for its poetry and musicians, particularly in trying to pick up women. Raul then shouted us a drink which was quite refreshing and had a mint type herb in it along with rum and lemon juice, quite tasty! The place was filled with smoke but had great atmosphere. We then headed off to a jazz bar which had the Canal Street Jazz Band playing. They were unreal, and we sat and enjoyed their playing for an hour or so. Raul was able to lend us some money so we could get their CD. I have already downloaded it onto the iRiver and can't wait to listen to it along out travels. It was almost like they had come straight from New Orleans. 3am home!
Lets play
Sunday 30 November 2008 - Madrid, Spain
So today we went to visit the Kind and Queen of Spain, unfortunately they'd just popped out for some Macca's but said we could make ourselves at home, so we just had a wander through the Palace for a while. Afterwards we thought we would attempt the metro and see if we could get ourselves to the Zoo. As confusing as the map looks it is actually a really easy system to use, and is only 1 euro wherever you go. Understanding Spanish of course helps immensely. As you can imagine its hard enough to understand train announcements in English. On our way to the Zoo we went to the amusement park. It is obviously the low season as there was practically no-one there and about 70% of the rides were closed. Pete at this stage had been looking for a porcelin friend, so no upside-down rides for him, so we went on a few of the kiddy rides for the fun of it. Headed over the zoo, and finally got to see some American Brown Bears, who would have thought we had to go through Alaska, and America, then onto Spain to finally see some Bears. They also had an impressive collection of Australian animals with Koalas, Kangaroos and Emu's. They are linked with a big aquarium and we sat in on the Dolphin show. These 6 dolphins were truly stars and they new it. The show went for about 30 minutes and was a major highlight of the day. Finally got in touch with Raul, and arranged to meet up for dinner at 10pm, yep they eat late in Madrid. Raul was great, ever the host and rustled up a meal for us in his kitchen, while giving us some tips of what we really must see tomorrow. This was followed up with an introduction to a Sheesha which is a traditional waterpipe smoke thingo used mainly in arabic countries. You can choose all sorts of flavours to try and Raul set us up with Melon. In the end not really my thing, but very interesting all the same to have a crack.
So today we went to visit the Kind and Queen of Spain, unfortunately they'd just popped out for some Macca's but said we could make ourselves at home, so we just had a wander through the Palace for a while. Afterwards we thought we would attempt the metro and see if we could get ourselves to the Zoo. As confusing as the map looks it is actually a really easy system to use, and is only 1 euro wherever you go. Understanding Spanish of course helps immensely. As you can imagine its hard enough to understand train announcements in English. On our way to the Zoo we went to the amusement park. It is obviously the low season as there was practically no-one there and about 70% of the rides were closed. Pete at this stage had been looking for a porcelin friend, so no upside-down rides for him, so we went on a few of the kiddy rides for the fun of it. Headed over the zoo, and finally got to see some American Brown Bears, who would have thought we had to go through Alaska, and America, then onto Spain to finally see some Bears. They also had an impressive collection of Australian animals with Koalas, Kangaroos and Emu's. They are linked with a big aquarium and we sat in on the Dolphin show. These 6 dolphins were truly stars and they new it. The show went for about 30 minutes and was a major highlight of the day. Finally got in touch with Raul, and arranged to meet up for dinner at 10pm, yep they eat late in Madrid. Raul was great, ever the host and rustled up a meal for us in his kitchen, while giving us some tips of what we really must see tomorrow. This was followed up with an introduction to a Sheesha which is a traditional waterpipe smoke thingo used mainly in arabic countries. You can choose all sorts of flavours to try and Raul set us up with Melon. In the end not really my thing, but very interesting all the same to have a crack.
Real Madrid
Friday 28 November 2008 - Madrid, Spain
Out and about on buses and walking. Headed off to the Museum Del Prado to get a bit-a cul-cha. If you are going to visit one museum out of the 100 or so that are here, I would say this is the one to get to. It is filled with famous works, and to truly appreciate it you need to probably spend a day there. Much of the collection you are not allowed to photograph, but if you google you will find just a taste of what we saw. We then went onto to the Santiago Bernabeu Stadium home of Real Madrid Soccer. The stadium is enormous and you could just imagine the atmosphere of a home game. We got to go high up in the stadium as well as in the trophy room, down on the bench and into the players dressing rooms (no-one present unfortunately). Who knows I might just become a fan by the time the world cup comes to Australia. We then tried to get hold of a friend of a friend, Raul, who lives in Madrid, and with a comedy of errors of payphones not working and loosing phone numbers it just didn't happen. It may have been the best thing though, as it turned out it was another night with the porcelin throne.
Out and about on buses and walking. Headed off to the Museum Del Prado to get a bit-a cul-cha. If you are going to visit one museum out of the 100 or so that are here, I would say this is the one to get to. It is filled with famous works, and to truly appreciate it you need to probably spend a day there. Much of the collection you are not allowed to photograph, but if you google you will find just a taste of what we saw. We then went onto to the Santiago Bernabeu Stadium home of Real Madrid Soccer. The stadium is enormous and you could just imagine the atmosphere of a home game. We got to go high up in the stadium as well as in the trophy room, down on the bench and into the players dressing rooms (no-one present unfortunately). Who knows I might just become a fan by the time the world cup comes to Australia. We then tried to get hold of a friend of a friend, Raul, who lives in Madrid, and with a comedy of errors of payphones not working and loosing phone numbers it just didn't happen. It may have been the best thing though, as it turned out it was another night with the porcelin throne.
Puerta de Sol
Thursday 27 November 2008 - Madrid, Spain
Arrived in Madrid at 2:30pm. Thought we were going to get a hard time coming from Mexico and Peru, particularly about our vaccinations, but not one question asked. Got a taxi to Puerta de Sol. Cost 33 Euros which is way too much but it is very hard to argue with a spanish taxi driver who is giving you a hard time. We then went for a little walk around and realised we were literally in the heart of the city which is fantastic. The streets are really narrow and it is so quick and easy to get anywhere. You can literally walk from one side of the city to the other in about 40 minutes. We also had checked into a Gay Hostel. It had the cheapest rates, was closest to the city, had availability and said women welcome. Needless to say Pete was getting all the conversation and attention his way, and I was getting a bit of the 'and why are you here?'.
Arrived in Madrid at 2:30pm. Thought we were going to get a hard time coming from Mexico and Peru, particularly about our vaccinations, but not one question asked. Got a taxi to Puerta de Sol. Cost 33 Euros which is way too much but it is very hard to argue with a spanish taxi driver who is giving you a hard time. We then went for a little walk around and realised we were literally in the heart of the city which is fantastic. The streets are really narrow and it is so quick and easy to get anywhere. You can literally walk from one side of the city to the other in about 40 minutes. We also had checked into a Gay Hostel. It had the cheapest rates, was closest to the city, had availability and said women welcome. Needless to say Pete was getting all the conversation and attention his way, and I was getting a bit of the 'and why are you here?'.
Last Day in Cuzco
Wednesday 26 November 2008 - Cuzco, Peru
Had a little bit of sleep in before packing our bags and taking the last chance to wander through the streets, including last minute bartering for an alpaca scarf. Hailed a taxi to take us to the airport for 6 soles (don't pay any more than this if you come) and airport waiting time. Our flight to Lima was delayed and just before boarding we learnt about the attacks in Mumbai. It was very saddening to hear what had happened. We have our flight to Mumbai scheduled for January so we will see how things unfold.
Had a little bit of sleep in before packing our bags and taking the last chance to wander through the streets, including last minute bartering for an alpaca scarf. Hailed a taxi to take us to the airport for 6 soles (don't pay any more than this if you come) and airport waiting time. Our flight to Lima was delayed and just before boarding we learnt about the attacks in Mumbai. It was very saddening to hear what had happened. We have our flight to Mumbai scheduled for January so we will see how things unfold.
Sunrise @ Machupiccu
Tuesday 25 November 2008 - Machupiccu, Peru
After the longest night I think I've ever had getting up and down from the bathroom (yes it wasn't a pretty site) it was getting close to the time we were meant to be awakening for Machupicchu. I certainly didn't feel ready to go climb a mountain, but having come this far was determined to have a go. So we got the bus to the entrance, the ride is a little scary in places as these experienced drivers do a number of switchbacks while bypassing other buses coming down the mountain. By the time we got up, I had a fever and could hardly walk. We made our way through some of the ruins to the terraces where I found a stone to site while Pete ran about taking pictures, and by the time he came back I had moved off the stone into the fetal position. So there we were, Pete holding my hand, while watching the sun rising over Machupiccu. We kept getting interrupted by guides asking if I needed a stretcher. We had a tour booked for 8am, but by this time I probably did need a stretcher. Pete took me back down the mountain in a bus and was able to get another room for us at the hostel we had stayed in for the rest of the day. Pete tucked me in and while I passed out for 5 hours, Pete was able to go back up and walk Machupiccu Mountain. This is normally a 3 hour return trek, but clever Pete did it in under 2. By the time Pete came back I was feeling a little better (could now walk) and we headed for the train back to Cuzco. I'm sure the 4 hour trip is normally wonderful, but when you are not feeling well it is like an eternity, oh and once again backwards. The staff put on a fashion show with designer alpaca wear, and also dressed in a traditional outfit to do a dance up and down the isle. We also had a special treat of sitting behind some Americans who were pretty loud, so now we know everything about Matt who is taking his parents overseas with him, and all the travels they have been on, along with Jennifer and Dave and the 2 boys (10,12) who go everywhere with them. As the train approached Cuzco the lights were turned off and as the train switched back down the mountain we had a wonderful view of Cuzco at night with its beautiful lights.
After the longest night I think I've ever had getting up and down from the bathroom (yes it wasn't a pretty site) it was getting close to the time we were meant to be awakening for Machupicchu. I certainly didn't feel ready to go climb a mountain, but having come this far was determined to have a go. So we got the bus to the entrance, the ride is a little scary in places as these experienced drivers do a number of switchbacks while bypassing other buses coming down the mountain. By the time we got up, I had a fever and could hardly walk. We made our way through some of the ruins to the terraces where I found a stone to site while Pete ran about taking pictures, and by the time he came back I had moved off the stone into the fetal position. So there we were, Pete holding my hand, while watching the sun rising over Machupiccu. We kept getting interrupted by guides asking if I needed a stretcher. We had a tour booked for 8am, but by this time I probably did need a stretcher. Pete took me back down the mountain in a bus and was able to get another room for us at the hostel we had stayed in for the rest of the day. Pete tucked me in and while I passed out for 5 hours, Pete was able to go back up and walk Machupiccu Mountain. This is normally a 3 hour return trek, but clever Pete did it in under 2. By the time Pete came back I was feeling a little better (could now walk) and we headed for the train back to Cuzco. I'm sure the 4 hour trip is normally wonderful, but when you are not feeling well it is like an eternity, oh and once again backwards. The staff put on a fashion show with designer alpaca wear, and also dressed in a traditional outfit to do a dance up and down the isle. We also had a special treat of sitting behind some Americans who were pretty loud, so now we know everything about Matt who is taking his parents overseas with him, and all the travels they have been on, along with Jennifer and Dave and the 2 boys (10,12) who go everywhere with them. As the train approached Cuzco the lights were turned off and as the train switched back down the mountain we had a wonderful view of Cuzco at night with its beautiful lights.
Off to Machupiccu
Monday 24 November 2008 - Machupiccu, Peru
4:30am start to get picked up at 5:10 for our 6am vista dome train. We were very excited and our seats were together at 31D and 31E. Well, no, they weren't. D & E are different carriages are they. 31 refers to the seat number. So then we talked to the staff about rearranging us. Pete was pretty pissed off, but they were able to accommodate us in the end. Word for the wise, if getting the train, get seats together, and seats that face forward - going backwards for 4 hours does your head in. When we arrived at Aquas Caliantas Station we were met by a girl from our hostel who walked us a short way through the market, over the railway and down by a raging river. Our room was great, with a private bathroom and view of the river. Hot water wasn't really optional, but things could be worse. We then found out where the Hot Springs were and headed up the road to have a dip. The Springs are nestled high up the road so its a little bit of a walk to get up there. There are 6 pools all with different temperatures and the colour of the water looks a bit like dirty creek water, but it feels really good then it started to rain. Its a fantastic feeling being in really warm water with cool rain coming down. We then went up to have a few beers and watch the goings on down below.
4:30am start to get picked up at 5:10 for our 6am vista dome train. We were very excited and our seats were together at 31D and 31E. Well, no, they weren't. D & E are different carriages are they. 31 refers to the seat number. So then we talked to the staff about rearranging us. Pete was pretty pissed off, but they were able to accommodate us in the end. Word for the wise, if getting the train, get seats together, and seats that face forward - going backwards for 4 hours does your head in. When we arrived at Aquas Caliantas Station we were met by a girl from our hostel who walked us a short way through the market, over the railway and down by a raging river. Our room was great, with a private bathroom and view of the river. Hot water wasn't really optional, but things could be worse. We then found out where the Hot Springs were and headed up the road to have a dip. The Springs are nestled high up the road so its a little bit of a walk to get up there. There are 6 pools all with different temperatures and the colour of the water looks a bit like dirty creek water, but it feels really good then it started to rain. Its a fantastic feeling being in really warm water with cool rain coming down. We then went up to have a few beers and watch the goings on down below.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Sacred Valley Peru
Sunday 23 November 2008 - Sacred Valley, PeruToday we were lucky to visit a number of sites in the Sacred Valley. It follows the Vilcanota River and heads its way to Machupiccu. We stoped at Pisaq, Calca, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero. Many of these sites were a strain on the legs as the sites are way up high in the mountains and you have to climb huge steps carved out of the stone. Of course it is worth it, and the views and scenery are incredible. At Pisaq they have a wonderful market which is particularly bigger on Sundays, so if you going, head there on a Sunday. Don't forget to bargain of course, and anything they suggest, it is probably more like half the price they are happy with. All the sites are built in platform stages, like rice patty's, this is for agriculture as well as stability. At Chincheros they also have a market where traditional crafts are made with natural dies, and they also have demonstrations of how the dies are used.
Horse Riding and City Tour of Cuzco
Saturday 22 November 2008 - Cuzco, Peru
Our day started with a horse ride to an archelogical site. 3 of us were driven high up in the hills in a tiny cab to some stables where it looked like these horses hadn't eaten in a month. We were met by the guide and 3 others, and all mounted our anorexic nag's to head even further up the mountain through mud and rocks. It was a beautiful day, and the riding was very easy as the poor things were set to auto-pilot and just followed each other in a row. The site was pretty good as it wasn't on the tourist route. It was interested once again seeing the gum trees all around like in San Francisco, and we learnt that the farmers had imported the gum trees from Australia to plant and to prevent mud slides.
In the afternoon we met with a larger group at the Plaza de Armas and visited 6 sites. The Cathedral, Koricancha (Inca Temple of the Sun), Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman), Qénko, Puca Pucara, and Tambomachay. The Cathedral is absolutely amazing, a definitely must see. Unfortunately you can't take photographs in there because people have reproduced works from inside and then stolen the originals. By the time we had got to the second temple, Pete was feeling pretty sick so he went back to the hostel for a lay down while I continued on to the the other ruins. They were all amazing. The Inca's certainly put so much detail in their work, and it seems almost impossible to achieve what they did. The stone they used was incredibly heavy and quaried from hundreds of miles away. It was then carved into perfect geometric shapes to fit neatly against each other so no motar was used. The sites must have looked so beautiful when they were completed as it is believed many of them were covered in gold and held golden idols. These of course were stripped bare when the spaniards came.
Our day started with a horse ride to an archelogical site. 3 of us were driven high up in the hills in a tiny cab to some stables where it looked like these horses hadn't eaten in a month. We were met by the guide and 3 others, and all mounted our anorexic nag's to head even further up the mountain through mud and rocks. It was a beautiful day, and the riding was very easy as the poor things were set to auto-pilot and just followed each other in a row. The site was pretty good as it wasn't on the tourist route. It was interested once again seeing the gum trees all around like in San Francisco, and we learnt that the farmers had imported the gum trees from Australia to plant and to prevent mud slides.
In the afternoon we met with a larger group at the Plaza de Armas and visited 6 sites. The Cathedral, Koricancha (Inca Temple of the Sun), Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman), Qénko, Puca Pucara, and Tambomachay. The Cathedral is absolutely amazing, a definitely must see. Unfortunately you can't take photographs in there because people have reproduced works from inside and then stolen the originals. By the time we had got to the second temple, Pete was feeling pretty sick so he went back to the hostel for a lay down while I continued on to the the other ruins. They were all amazing. The Inca's certainly put so much detail in their work, and it seems almost impossible to achieve what they did. The stone they used was incredibly heavy and quaried from hundreds of miles away. It was then carved into perfect geometric shapes to fit neatly against each other so no motar was used. The sites must have looked so beautiful when they were completed as it is believed many of them were covered in gold and held golden idols. These of course were stripped bare when the spaniards came.
Quinoa Soup
Friday 21 November 2008 - Cuzco, Peru
Sleep in after a restless night of headaches and pins and needles, which we found out later is signs of altitude sickness, so another rest day and more Coca Tea. Looking on the internet this morning we did a bit of research on Coca Tea, turns out it is basis of Cocaine, so there you go. Of course it goes through a lot of processing to become cocaine, but, there you go. Then a bit of a wander through the streets of Cuzco. It is such just a beautiful city, filled with culture, arts and wonder. We went to a couple of tour guide offices and ended up booking a tour to see some ruins over the next couple of days, finishing with Machu Picchu on Tuesday. We also found some great places to eat that have beautiful food which is really cheap. For lunch we had some Alpaca which was really good, along with more Quinoa soup. Effects of altitude started to slow down by the end of the day, so hopefully with another good nights sleep we'll be all set for horse riding tomorrow.
Pictures: Coca Tea, View from Restaurant of Plaza de Armas
Sleep in after a restless night of headaches and pins and needles, which we found out later is signs of altitude sickness, so another rest day and more Coca Tea. Looking on the internet this morning we did a bit of research on Coca Tea, turns out it is basis of Cocaine, so there you go. Of course it goes through a lot of processing to become cocaine, but, there you go. Then a bit of a wander through the streets of Cuzco. It is such just a beautiful city, filled with culture, arts and wonder. We went to a couple of tour guide offices and ended up booking a tour to see some ruins over the next couple of days, finishing with Machu Picchu on Tuesday. We also found some great places to eat that have beautiful food which is really cheap. For lunch we had some Alpaca which was really good, along with more Quinoa soup. Effects of altitude started to slow down by the end of the day, so hopefully with another good nights sleep we'll be all set for horse riding tomorrow.
Pictures: Coca Tea, View from Restaurant of Plaza de ArmasAltitude 11,500 and not feeling well
Thursday 20 November 2008 - Mexico City, Mexico to Lima, Peru, to Cuzco, Peru
We arrived into Lima at 6am, and transferred to the domestic check-in for our flight to Cuzco. The flight didn't depart until 11:30am so more time to loose. We had to pay departure tax, which we weren't prepared for and a bit cranky with after not much sleep and a hang over, and knowing that all taxes were meant to be included in our ticket, but anyway, you have to pay or you don't get through. Then we went through the scanning, to our gate and realised there was nothing to eat, so went back out to the main part of the airport had some breakfast, then went to go back through the scanners, and were told we had to pay the departure tax again. Very cranky, hang over, not happy Jan emotion coming over both of us. But once again, you don't pay, you don't get through. So be warned if you are going through Lima - eat, then go to your gate, and you will have to pay departure tax.
As we arrived into Cuzco we were greeted by musicians playing Peruvian music, and then outside by a lady from our hostel who was going to drive us to El Truinfo. You could feel the altitude straight away and it brought back memories of asthma as it felt like somebody was standing on my chest, and every couple of breaths having to take a big breath. The hostel is lovely, and we have our own private bathroom. First things first and we were given a cup of Coca tea. This tea is meant to be really good for altitude sickness, so it was good to have something natural that we hope helps. Then ... a hot shower,. Oh Nikki, its so good, I hope you get yours fixed very soon. Then it was off to bed for a sleep, we were absolutely exhausted and passed out pretty quickly. We awoke in time for a bite to eat at a cafe across the road and had some quinua soup. We were again serenaded by a group of 3 muscians who were playing pan pipes, guitar, and small guitars they were wonderful and thankfully were selling CD's of their music. The music we have heard through our trip so far has been so good, and we feel so lucky to hearing so much diversity.
We arrived into Lima at 6am, and transferred to the domestic check-in for our flight to Cuzco. The flight didn't depart until 11:30am so more time to loose. We had to pay departure tax, which we weren't prepared for and a bit cranky with after not much sleep and a hang over, and knowing that all taxes were meant to be included in our ticket, but anyway, you have to pay or you don't get through. Then we went through the scanning, to our gate and realised there was nothing to eat, so went back out to the main part of the airport had some breakfast, then went to go back through the scanners, and were told we had to pay the departure tax again. Very cranky, hang over, not happy Jan emotion coming over both of us. But once again, you don't pay, you don't get through. So be warned if you are going through Lima - eat, then go to your gate, and you will have to pay departure tax.
As we arrived into Cuzco we were greeted by musicians playing Peruvian music, and then outside by a lady from our hostel who was going to drive us to El Truinfo. You could feel the altitude straight away and it brought back memories of asthma as it felt like somebody was standing on my chest, and every couple of breaths having to take a big breath. The hostel is lovely, and we have our own private bathroom. First things first and we were given a cup of Coca tea. This tea is meant to be really good for altitude sickness, so it was good to have something natural that we hope helps. Then ... a hot shower,. Oh Nikki, its so good, I hope you get yours fixed very soon. Then it was off to bed for a sleep, we were absolutely exhausted and passed out pretty quickly. We awoke in time for a bite to eat at a cafe across the road and had some quinua soup. We were again serenaded by a group of 3 muscians who were playing pan pipes, guitar, and small guitars they were wonderful and thankfully were selling CD's of their music. The music we have heard through our trip so far has been so good, and we feel so lucky to hearing so much diversity.
Travel Day
Wednesday 19 November 2008 - Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico to Mexico City, Mexico
Oh what a night. The light of day saw to our adventures the night before, the toilet was still broken and much of the water had dried up from the flooding, and we had some pretty impressive hangovers. Pete had no idea what had gone on and with him not believing me he had to see the toilet for himself to see his grand accomplishment. As I was explaining to Pete what had happened, I could hear Raz upstairs telling Nikki what had happened, she had slept through everything and couldn't believe it either - until she saw it as well. We felt so bad, but they were wonderful and very gracious. Lucus was still lost and Nikki went out looking for him while Pete & I did some last minute packing. Lucus was soon found and we were off in a taxi to CAXA Bus Terminal. Our driver happened to previously work in abattoir's in the USA and in Mexico and Nikki asked him how cattle were killed. In the US he said that they used an air gun to the head, that instantly killed the cow. In Mexico, they cut from the throat to the heart, and they don't die instantly ... and they do scream. It broke our hearts, and what we thought we had heard a couple of nights earlier was probably right. Our bus left at 11:00, we were told it would be a 5 hr bus trip but were hoping that our luck would still be going well and we would get in early. Not to be as our journey took 8 hrs to get to Mexico City Airport. Then it took us another hour to find our check-in, ending up at Terminal 2 and having to get the sky train there. All in all though it still ended okay, as our flight wasn't until 11:30pm so we were still early.
Lan Peru is a pretty nice airline, they are pretty sensitive though about people taking their blankets. They have them electronically tagged to avoid people pinching them off the plane, not that I would do anything like that.
Oh what a night. The light of day saw to our adventures the night before, the toilet was still broken and much of the water had dried up from the flooding, and we had some pretty impressive hangovers. Pete had no idea what had gone on and with him not believing me he had to see the toilet for himself to see his grand accomplishment. As I was explaining to Pete what had happened, I could hear Raz upstairs telling Nikki what had happened, she had slept through everything and couldn't believe it either - until she saw it as well. We felt so bad, but they were wonderful and very gracious. Lucus was still lost and Nikki went out looking for him while Pete & I did some last minute packing. Lucus was soon found and we were off in a taxi to CAXA Bus Terminal. Our driver happened to previously work in abattoir's in the USA and in Mexico and Nikki asked him how cattle were killed. In the US he said that they used an air gun to the head, that instantly killed the cow. In Mexico, they cut from the throat to the heart, and they don't die instantly ... and they do scream. It broke our hearts, and what we thought we had heard a couple of nights earlier was probably right. Our bus left at 11:00, we were told it would be a 5 hr bus trip but were hoping that our luck would still be going well and we would get in early. Not to be as our journey took 8 hrs to get to Mexico City Airport. Then it took us another hour to find our check-in, ending up at Terminal 2 and having to get the sky train there. All in all though it still ended okay, as our flight wasn't until 11:30pm so we were still early.
Lan Peru is a pretty nice airline, they are pretty sensitive though about people taking their blankets. They have them electronically tagged to avoid people pinching them off the plane, not that I would do anything like that.
Museum Day
Tuesday 18 November 2008 - Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico
Raziel didn't have rehearsal again today so was able to join us for a trip to the Xalapa Museum of Anthropology. The Xalapa Museum is fantastic and filled with relics. We got a audio guide which was useful as the descriptions were in Spanish. I also ended up getting a book which covers many pieces in the museum to be able to read over them when we have more time. Pete was pretty unwell today, and ended up spending a great deal of time close to the facilities.
Raziel didn't have rehearsal again today so was able to join us for a trip to the Xalapa Museum of Anthropology. The Xalapa Museum is fantastic and filled with relics. We got a audio guide which was useful as the descriptions were in Spanish. I also ended up getting a book which covers many pieces in the museum to be able to read over them when we have more time. Pete was pretty unwell today, and ended up spending a great deal of time close to the facilities.
Getting home we were in a bit of a festive mood and we all decided to have a bit of vodka and orange while Raz and Nik were preparing a feast for dinner. Well that bottle wasn't lasting very long and Raz and Pete went for a walk to go down the shop to get more. They came back 1.5 hrs later ... its a long walk, and Nikki and I had been enjoying our time, listening to music and having fun. Lucus had followed Pete & Raz into town, but had disappeared along the way, and hadn't come home, so we were a little worried about him, but hopefully would be back in the morning. Back to the drinks and it wasn't long before the boys caught up and things started to become a bit hazy. That was until Raz woke me up (i'd lay down), and he said he couldn't get Pete out of the bathroom and there was a flood. I got up to find water gushing from under the door, and things outside starting to get very wet. Are you laughing yet? Raz & I started knocking and knocking, 'Pete, open the door!'. Finally he comes out, all fine, and says 'whats the problem?' The cistern had broken and water was gushing out of the toilet, but no water on Pete - was he standing on the toilet? I kept saying to Raz that we were so sorry, Pete said he didn't know how it had happened and Raz said Pete had been in there for hours, but he still loved us. We moved a few things around, got the water level float tied up so it would stop letting water out, and yelled timber as Pete crashed to the mattress and got some sleep. 
Picture: top from Xalapa Museum Collosal Head in the Garden, bottom - Pete's handy work in the bathroom.
Picture: top from Xalapa Museum Collosal Head in the Garden, bottom - Pete's handy work in the bathroom.Vanilla Liquor for Dinner
Monday 17 November 2008 - Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico
Slow day as Raziel didn't have rehearsal and we didn't really arise until 10:00. Nikki, Pete & I went into town to see if the Canon shop was open as I was wanting to get my camera cleaned. But Mexico has a funny thing about public holidays ... there is a public holiday on Thursday, so the days leading up to it are called bridging days, which basically mean people take them off as well. And because Friday is just one day in the week, chances are they will take Friday off as well. So not many working this week, including the Canon shop. We then had a very laid back lunch at the vegetarian restaurant again, and picked up some vege's. As we were deciding to head home it started to rain, but we had wanted to get some bread for Raziel as it was one of his treats and he didn't come with us. So Nikki spoke to a taxi driver, and he was able to take us to the bread shop, and then home pretty cheaply. He seemed like a really nice man, so we got him some bread too and gave him a tip for being so patient with us.
Tonight I thought I'd have a bit of fun with the Vanilla Liquor we bought in Papantla, and made dinner out of fried bananas, tortillas, with a salsa of vanilla liquor, chilli and walnuts. Tasted more like a desert than dinner, but Nikki & Raziel were very patient with my experiment. Raziel added some cheese to the table and it tasted even better.
Slow day as Raziel didn't have rehearsal and we didn't really arise until 10:00. Nikki, Pete & I went into town to see if the Canon shop was open as I was wanting to get my camera cleaned. But Mexico has a funny thing about public holidays ... there is a public holiday on Thursday, so the days leading up to it are called bridging days, which basically mean people take them off as well. And because Friday is just one day in the week, chances are they will take Friday off as well. So not many working this week, including the Canon shop. We then had a very laid back lunch at the vegetarian restaurant again, and picked up some vege's. As we were deciding to head home it started to rain, but we had wanted to get some bread for Raziel as it was one of his treats and he didn't come with us. So Nikki spoke to a taxi driver, and he was able to take us to the bread shop, and then home pretty cheaply. He seemed like a really nice man, so we got him some bread too and gave him a tip for being so patient with us.
Tonight I thought I'd have a bit of fun with the Vanilla Liquor we bought in Papantla, and made dinner out of fried bananas, tortillas, with a salsa of vanilla liquor, chilli and walnuts. Tasted more like a desert than dinner, but Nikki & Raziel were very patient with my experiment. Raziel added some cheese to the table and it tasted even better.
El Tajin Ruins
Sunday 16 November 2008 - El Tajin Ruins, Veracruz, Mexico Nikki, Raziel, Pete & I had a very early start catching the 7am bus to Xalapa to be on the 9am bus to Papantla. The trip to Papantla was meant to be 5 hours but because it was Sunday with many people not working I think the roads were pretty quite and we arrived early. As soon as we arrived, we found the local bus route that goes to the ruins of El Tajin, another 40 min bus ride down the road. When we first arrived at the ruins we were presented with a bustling market. These are mainly for visitors to teh ruins and have locally hand made crafts including hand embroidered blouses, skirts and dresses, hand made dolls, jewelry and touristy t-shirts. Through the market was the grand entrance to El Tajin, along with a museum. As it was Sunday entry was free but on other days adults are $45 paesos. Our first impressions were overwhelming. There were many pyramid structures, setting neatly amongst lush green manicured grass. As we walked past each ruin we were feeling different emotions, wonder, peacefulness, and even anxiety. The Tajin temple itself is amazing. It is a pyramid with 365 windows representing each day of the year, along with the four sides representing each season. It is believed to have played a major role in worshipping the seasons particularly during the harvest. It was very beautiful but also gave me a very uncomfortable feeling. In front of the Tajin was a narrow court area surrounded to the left and right with what appeared to be seating to view what was happening on the court. This area made me feel really uncomfortable and later we found out that an ancient ball game was probably played here where 2 teams played football with 4kg solid rubber ball. The winner of the game would be sacrificed to the gods with their head chopped off as a sign of offering strength. The site itself is quite large with probably only a quarter accessible to the public. It appears as though there are still many areas that have not been uncovered. As far as the tourism is concerned, there are not many westerners there at all, and it is more of a local attraction rather than an international attraction. For this reason, I'm so glad we were able to go. The ruins still carry their ancient wonder without commercialism taking over. After going through the ruins we wandered through the museum for a while, and then out into the courtyard area where an ancient dance was being performed. 5 dancers would dance around a very tall pole, to the tune of one of the dancers flute and drum. After the dance they all climb to the top of the pole, at the top their are 4 ropes which they wind around the top, and then attach to their waists. The flute player sits on the top of the pole while the 4 others hang upside down by the rope. They start to slowly spin around the pole, and as the rope untwines they get closer and closer to the ground, until they come to a stop. Behind the market were local stalls with local food being prepared where we stopped for a bite to eat and a beer. Then we took a taxi back to Papantla and wandered around the streets for a while. Papantla is the home of Vanilla, and the shops that were open were selling vanilla beans and everything you could make with them including jewelry and art and liquor. We got some liquor, and got some earrings. Our return bus home to Xalapa wasn't until 11:45pm so we had a bit of time to loose. Unfortunately being a Sunday, not much is open in the way of bars, so we spent the last 2 hours just waiting at the bus stop. Our journey home was pretty quick arriving at 3:30am, then getting a taxi back to Nikki's house. As we were driving home we went past the abattoir and in our sleepiness thought we heard a cow scream as we were driving past. It's not a pleasant sound.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Pulque (pull-key) Man
Saturday 15 November 2008 - Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico
We had a bit of a late start to get to CAXA and had plans to get the bus to Papantla and onto the ruins at Tajin, but upon our arrival found that it was a 5 hour bus trip and the next couple of buses were booked out. So by the time we were going to get there everything would have been closed. Nikki and Raziel had been talking about a drink that the locals love called Pulque. Its made from a cactus plant, is alcoholic and is subtle in its effects. So now with an afternoon free we went off to Raziels favourite Pulque place, which was out the back of someone's house. This lady apparently makes it, then they sell it out the back. It comes in 1 litre ceramic cups, is watery, and milky in colour. We were there probably 2 hours, but the time seemed to really go quickly as we sipped on our Pulque, slowly becoming little light headed and mellow. A guy across from us had obviously been enjoying his Pulque for quite some time as he started to nod off and his body become more and more jelly like, eventually passing out and breaking his Pulque cup. 
After we left the Pulque house we went past this window with a sign in it, '6 sheets of asbestos for sale'. We couldn't believe it. Nikki says that it is sold everywhere, and they have no idea of the health hazards.
After this we went onto to have dinner at Mrs Religous's house. This is the nickname given by Raz & Nik to a lady who cooks meals at the front of her house and sells them. Her food was so fresh and delicious, and she was quick with her hands hand making tortilla's in front of us.
We had a bit of a late start to get to CAXA and had plans to get the bus to Papantla and onto the ruins at Tajin, but upon our arrival found that it was a 5 hour bus trip and the next couple of buses were booked out. So by the time we were going to get there everything would have been closed. Nikki and Raziel had been talking about a drink that the locals love called Pulque. Its made from a cactus plant, is alcoholic and is subtle in its effects. So now with an afternoon free we went off to Raziels favourite Pulque place, which was out the back of someone's house. This lady apparently makes it, then they sell it out the back. It comes in 1 litre ceramic cups, is watery, and milky in colour. We were there probably 2 hours, but the time seemed to really go quickly as we sipped on our Pulque, slowly becoming little light headed and mellow. A guy across from us had obviously been enjoying his Pulque for quite some time as he started to nod off and his body become more and more jelly like, eventually passing out and breaking his Pulque cup. 
After we left the Pulque house we went past this window with a sign in it, '6 sheets of asbestos for sale'. We couldn't believe it. Nikki says that it is sold everywhere, and they have no idea of the health hazards.After this we went onto to have dinner at Mrs Religous's house. This is the nickname given by Raz & Nik to a lady who cooks meals at the front of her house and sells them. Her food was so fresh and delicious, and she was quick with her hands hand making tortilla's in front of us.
Can you do the Fandango?
Friday 14 November 2008 - Xalapa, Veracruz, MexicoAnother sleep in and time for me to give Pete a hair cut, sitting out in the sun, looking out at the view of Xalapa, nice way to cut hair. Nikki had also wanted to practice her Kinisi skills and gave Pete a balance which he really appreciated. When Raz came home after rehearsal, both he and Nikki said how they were interested in learning some Bowen so I took them through some basics and showed them how to do moves. Raziel has been having some pain in his hands, and his mother also has some kidney problems, so hopefully with the little bit we were able to teach them they will be able to do some good moves. We were invited in the evening to go to a Fandango (party with lots of music and dancing) by Daniel, and were planning to get the 8:30pm bus, but the bus didn't arrive so we started to walk. We ended up walking all the way to the city, but it took us until 9:30 and as we couldn't get hold of Daniel to find out where the Fandango was, we ended up going to place that Nikki & Raziel love that has Jazz, Pizza and Wine. We had lots of fun and ended up having a late night. Picture is the view of the restaurant and the band from our table at dinner.
Trouches
Thursday 13 November 2008 - Xalapa, Veracruz, Mexico As poor Raziel had to head off to rehearsal at 7:15 the rest of stayed in bed for a sleep in after our big day yesterday. Caught up on some washing, and just taking a bit of time to stop. When Raz came home we went for a walk to a Trout Farm (trouches) for some freshly cooked Trout. Wolfy has a bit of a habit of wanting to follow you everywhere, so he came along to the Trout Farm too. The Trout Farm sits along side a beautiful creek so you sit eating your trout, listening to the water running over the rocks. After our yummy trout, we walked back to the top of the hill and waited for a bus to Xalapa. Raziel was going home for a rest and practice, while Nikki, Pete & I took the laptops into the city to see if we could get onto the net. We tried a few places to connect wirelessly, and ended up at a fancy coffee shop to connect. My laptop was going so slow that the only thing I ended up being able to do was confirm our booking for accommodation in Cusco, and Nikki spent most of her time trying to make sure the antivirus software working, so it may have appeared that we didn't get much done but small successes are successes all the same. Picture shows Pete & Wolfy becoming good mates after lunch while we wait for the bus.
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